An Appendix to Lonely Planet's "Hiking in Japan" Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse
16/09/06 12:41 Filed in: Focus on the
Locus
Asahikawa
Buses leave from stop number four directly in front of the station to Asahi-dake Onsen. Service has recently been
expanded, but the free buses are a
thing of the past. 4 to 5 buses daily, 1 hour and 40 minutes,
1000yen.
If you are desperate to get to the trailhead at Asahi-dake Onsen, the tourist info desk has a taxi driver who can take you there for 5000yen. Otherwise, there are campsites at Kagura Oka park. Walk east from the station and take the first bridge that crosses the river to the south. It takes about 20 minutes on foot. The park is on the left and has level turf for camping, running water, moderate mosquitoes, toilets and groups of bbqing, bongo-drum pounding revelers that aren't aware they are in a camping ground (that was my unfortunate experience anyway).
The Hike - Day 1
Taking the 9:10am bus and the ropeway (every 15 minutes) lands you close to the famous steaming vents of Asahi-dake and cuts 2 hours of walking time off of the hike to Kuro-dake. Even so, it will likely be just before 11am, and there will still be 5-6 hours of pure hike time remaining. The main attraction for most of the visitors is Sugatami-ike - a pond that reflects the steaming vents in the background. Take either of the two paths from the ropeway: both lead to the pond.
The trail from Sugatami-ike to the peak of Asahi-dake is a continuous slog up the igneous slopes of the south face, but the view from the top is stunning ... or socked in with cloud. Having taken your obligatory photo, head east.
The descent is steep and treacherous,
as it is comprised of small, loose gravel, which can also be soaked
with meltwater, depending on the time of year. One or two hiking
poles are strongly recommended, especially with a heavy pack. The
saddle has a small unprotected campsite (5 tents maximum). The
makeshift rock walls built around the tentsites suggest an
uncomfortable night in high winds. From the campsite, climb up to
Mamiya-dake.
The LP guide mentions circling a large crater rim to the north, which can be a little confusing, as there is another crater that you see on the way up Mamiya-dake. Remember though, that the Daisetsuzan trails are well marked primarily at junctions and peaks, so keep going until you see the post marking Mamiya and the splitting of the trail. From here you can go to Kuro-dake and the end of the LP Day 1, or you can circle the crater in the opposite direction and hike to Hakkun-dake Hinan-goya, taking slightly more time and cutting the next day shorter by 2 hours.
The remaining hike is fairly easy: follow the ridge of the crater and enjoy contemplating the massive blast that made it once upon a time. Cross Naka-dake, pass the optional hike to Hokuchin-dake and descent into the relatively flat ground called Kumo no Daira. Your campsite - Kurodake-ishimuro - and the promise of food, sleep and beer (500yen) are visible at the start of the descent.
The campsite itself isn't huge, but it is free and busy. The hut costs 1500yen for the night, and food, fuel (gas canisters), and rental sleeping bags are available. The water supply consists of 3 water tanks covered with boards. "Boil the water" notices are posted, although the locals say that Echinococcus, the potentially fatal parasite in water contaminated by fox feces, is so rare as to not worry about it. There are apparently a lot of foxes in the area, but I didn't see any. The lack of freshness is reason enough to boil the water. Toilets here are clean and cost 200yen, with the added novelty of riding half a bicycle next to the toilet to help the hut's energy usage.
Before bed, climb up Kuro-dake. Although the name means "black mountain", you will not notice any difference in color. The view into the gorges on the east side is worth the 30 minutes, even at the end of your day.
The Hike - Day 2
Hokkai-dake, the first mountain of the day, is where the alternate trail from Mamiya-dake links up, but the extra 1.5hrs are worth it. From the camp, cross the river leading out of the crater and enjoy the banks littered with alpine flowers.
If you were turned off by the water
tanks last night, the snowmelt here is more appetizing but should
still be boiled. Hokkai-dake permits views of the end of Day 2 -
Chuubetsu-dake, and Day 3 - Tomuraushi.
Pass between Aka-dake (2078m) and Hakuun-dake (2229m) and drop down to Hakuun-dake Hinan-goya. This is a nice campsite, but prices have gone up. Sleeping in the hut costs 1000yen and camping is 300yen. However, the water source here is the only source on the whole hike, according to the 2006 Shobunsha map, that doesn't need to be boiled. A snowfield creates a short stream with little chance of contamination. This is the last nice water source for the day, so fill up. The rest of the day is spent in the slow, almost flat ascent of Chuubetsu-dake and then a steep drop down the the hut on the south side. The hiking is smooth and easy, and great views can be seen of the valley to the east.
The descent from Chuubetsu-dake is
the first encounter with brush pine. Depending on the direction it
grows, hiking through it is fairly smooth or tough going. A pack
cover is useful to prevent snagging your pack on head-high
branches.
The man that runs Chuubetsu-dake Hinan-goya is friendly and chats with everyone who stays. The hut itself is small and has an outhouse. The campsites too, are small and the ground is rocky, limiting the number of places to camp.
Depending on the amount of snow, 1 to 3 of the camping spots may be open for use. The proprietor, who has lived there for "a very long time" says the water is safe, and it can be assumed that he just drinks the snowmelt. However, when asked about Echinococcus, he said "ok, let's boil it." Take your chances.
The Hike - Day 3
Rise early and see mist rolling off of the snowfield. From the hut, climb back up to the junction and head south again through the brush pine. If it is foggy it can be hard to find the junction signpost, just head south along the ridge as there is nowhere else to go. Dew and brush pine make the hike up to Goshiki-dake wet and difficult. Take in another fantastic early morning view of most of the park and marvel at the craggy monster you are aiming at for the day - Tomuraushi. After wading through some somewhat pruned pine, the trail turns into a boardwalk over marshland. Climb Kaun-dake as a slight detour or skip it and similarly ignore the side trails to Hisago-numa, sticking to the ones marked for Tomuraushi.
The path drops to down to 1750m and then starts the rocky climb up Tomuraushi (2141m), one of the 100 famous mountains of Japan. Hiking poles are recommended for hopping from boulder to boulder. The peak is very popular and presents an opportunity to chat with the picnicking locals. The weather around the peak and the camp on the opposite side is highly variable: I arrived at the Minami-numa campsite at 1pm and watched the weather change from fog to clear skies to a torrential thunder storm. Set camp quickly. There is meltwater and a form of outhouse which lets you do your business into a bag and pack it out, rather than dig a cathole.
The Hike - Day 4
The LP Hiking in Japan guide lists Day 4 as the hardest day, and they aren't fooling.
Most of the other hikers will think
you are crazy and you will likely only have a couple of companions
at most. This is by far the least populous stretch. If it has
rained or if you are the first in the morning to hit the dew, you
are going to be soaked. Rain pants are a must and hiking poles are
critical for both maintaining your footing on slippery clay trails
hidden by bear grass and shaking some dew off the plants in front
of you. That said, the hardest stretch only lasts about an
hour.
The LP notes that you can cut the day in half by staying at Futago-numa, but this campsite is really muddy and not at all attractive. Instead, if you are concerned about the length of Day 4 (17km), I would recommend filling up on water at Minami-Numa, and instead of cutting that day short at lunchtime, keep hiking toward Sansen-dai, the first mountain of Day 4. Shortly before and after Sansen-dai there are very small campsites not listed on the Shobunsha map. The former is exposed and doesn't have water, but camping here shortens the next day by 90 minutes. The latter has questionable water and room for about 3 tents. Also note that between the two sites there is a decommissioned trail leading to the west, but the sign's red lettering is extremely faded and the sign itself isn't placed to block you from taking that trail inadvertently.
At the base of Tsurigane-yama, there is a third campsite, fitting about 5 tents, again with no amenities, reachable after around 3 hours of hiking from Minami-Numa. None of these sites are as nice as Minami-Numa, but they make Day 4 shorter.
After the tough trails, the hours leading up to Futago-numa are fairly easy, popping up and down along the ridge leading south. Just before Futago-numa, however, is the least pleasant stretch in the hike. The trails turn into puddles and streams, again requiring the use of a hiking stick or pole to keep from falling in as you jump from dry land to dry land. The trail is also mostly hidden and footing is treacherous. Gauge your energy level after taking lunch at Futago-numa, as another 4 hours of hiking remains. The remaining mountain, Oputakeshike,
can also look daunting, as the trail
leads 600m straight up it. If you happen to have the misfortune of
being swaddled in cloud for the last 3 hours leading to camp, amuse
yourself by memorizing the rhythmic names of the Ainu mountains you
have conquered: Tomuraushi, Tsurigane, Kosumanupuri,
Oputakeshike.
The camp at Biei-Fuji Hinan-goya is so-so. The hut is unstaffed and sleeps about 8, while the campsites are somewhat muddy. The water source is a 10 minute hike north past the camp: look for a small stream flowing across the trail from the left bank. There are no toilets.
The Hike - Day 5
Almost done! Head south past Biei Fuji and to the 3-way junction that leads up Biei-dake, to the peak of Biei Fuji, or down to Tokachi-dake Hinan-goya. Climb Biei-dake and look for an extremely large rabbit that seems to call the area home. The mountains seen from Biei-dake are distinctly different from the previous ones. The slopes are barren and streaked in shades of brown, yellow and white. The ridge from Biei links up to the biggest mountain of sand you'll ever see - Tokachi-dake.
Even in heavy cloud this is an
interesting mountain to climb. The ground is like sand in places,
but nearing the top it is more solid. Walking in pure cloud, with
less than 10m of visibility and nothing alive to make any sound
makes the mountain feel more like Mars than Japan.
The people at the peak listening to baseball on little radios and drinking beer will, however, dispel the magic. From the peak, follow the signs marked for Tokachi-dake Onsen. The next main landmark is Kami Horo Hinan-goya, a little hut at the base of Kami Horokamettoku-yama. If you are considering the Side Trip to Furano-dake, you might want to camp here. From the hut you can climb the peak or skirt it. I personally found skirting it to be disorienting, as I was in heavy cloud and the trail bended west more than expected. Climbing over it is probably just as easy physically as the peak isn't big and it may be easier to navigate. If in doubt, 2 minutes after the trails meet a new junction that leads to Furano-dake or to Tokachi-dake Onsen clears up any uncertainty. From here it is another 2.5hrs down to the onsen. Part of the trail is made of large wooden stairs, but if your legs are tired they are just as difficult as a trail, so don't let your guard up just yet.
The Onsen has a nice valley setting and a beer machine,
but is otherwise not worth your time.
There is a public washroom in the parking lot and buses leave for
Kami Furano at 10:29am, 2:07pm and 5:17pm (last changed July 2001),
costing 500yen taking and 45 minutes.
Buses leave from stop number four directly in front of the station to Asahi-dake Onsen. Service has recently been
If you are desperate to get to the trailhead at Asahi-dake Onsen, the tourist info desk has a taxi driver who can take you there for 5000yen. Otherwise, there are campsites at Kagura Oka park. Walk east from the station and take the first bridge that crosses the river to the south. It takes about 20 minutes on foot. The park is on the left and has level turf for camping, running water, moderate mosquitoes, toilets and groups of bbqing, bongo-drum pounding revelers that aren't aware they are in a camping ground (that was my unfortunate experience anyway).
The Hike - Day 1
Taking the 9:10am bus and the ropeway (every 15 minutes) lands you close to the famous steaming vents of Asahi-dake and cuts 2 hours of walking time off of the hike to Kuro-dake. Even so, it will likely be just before 11am, and there will still be 5-6 hours of pure hike time remaining. The main attraction for most of the visitors is Sugatami-ike - a pond that reflects the steaming vents in the background. Take either of the two paths from the ropeway: both lead to the pond.
The trail from Sugatami-ike to the peak of Asahi-dake is a continuous slog up the igneous slopes of the south face, but the view from the top is stunning ... or socked in with cloud. Having taken your obligatory photo, head east.
The LP guide mentions circling a large crater rim to the north, which can be a little confusing, as there is another crater that you see on the way up Mamiya-dake. Remember though, that the Daisetsuzan trails are well marked primarily at junctions and peaks, so keep going until you see the post marking Mamiya and the splitting of the trail. From here you can go to Kuro-dake and the end of the LP Day 1, or you can circle the crater in the opposite direction and hike to Hakkun-dake Hinan-goya, taking slightly more time and cutting the next day shorter by 2 hours.
The remaining hike is fairly easy: follow the ridge of the crater and enjoy contemplating the massive blast that made it once upon a time. Cross Naka-dake, pass the optional hike to Hokuchin-dake and descent into the relatively flat ground called Kumo no Daira. Your campsite - Kurodake-ishimuro - and the promise of food, sleep and beer (500yen) are visible at the start of the descent.
The campsite itself isn't huge, but it is free and busy. The hut costs 1500yen for the night, and food, fuel (gas canisters), and rental sleeping bags are available. The water supply consists of 3 water tanks covered with boards. "Boil the water" notices are posted, although the locals say that Echinococcus, the potentially fatal parasite in water contaminated by fox feces, is so rare as to not worry about it. There are apparently a lot of foxes in the area, but I didn't see any. The lack of freshness is reason enough to boil the water. Toilets here are clean and cost 200yen, with the added novelty of riding half a bicycle next to the toilet to help the hut's energy usage.
Before bed, climb up Kuro-dake. Although the name means "black mountain", you will not notice any difference in color. The view into the gorges on the east side is worth the 30 minutes, even at the end of your day.
The Hike - Day 2
Hokkai-dake, the first mountain of the day, is where the alternate trail from Mamiya-dake links up, but the extra 1.5hrs are worth it. From the camp, cross the river leading out of the crater and enjoy the banks littered with alpine flowers.
Pass between Aka-dake (2078m) and Hakuun-dake (2229m) and drop down to Hakuun-dake Hinan-goya. This is a nice campsite, but prices have gone up. Sleeping in the hut costs 1000yen and camping is 300yen. However, the water source here is the only source on the whole hike, according to the 2006 Shobunsha map, that doesn't need to be boiled. A snowfield creates a short stream with little chance of contamination. This is the last nice water source for the day, so fill up. The rest of the day is spent in the slow, almost flat ascent of Chuubetsu-dake and then a steep drop down the the hut on the south side. The hiking is smooth and easy, and great views can be seen of the valley to the east.
The man that runs Chuubetsu-dake Hinan-goya is friendly and chats with everyone who stays. The hut itself is small and has an outhouse. The campsites too, are small and the ground is rocky, limiting the number of places to camp.
Depending on the amount of snow, 1 to 3 of the camping spots may be open for use. The proprietor, who has lived there for "a very long time" says the water is safe, and it can be assumed that he just drinks the snowmelt. However, when asked about Echinococcus, he said "ok, let's boil it." Take your chances.
The Hike - Day 3
Rise early and see mist rolling off of the snowfield. From the hut, climb back up to the junction and head south again through the brush pine. If it is foggy it can be hard to find the junction signpost, just head south along the ridge as there is nowhere else to go. Dew and brush pine make the hike up to Goshiki-dake wet and difficult. Take in another fantastic early morning view of most of the park and marvel at the craggy monster you are aiming at for the day - Tomuraushi. After wading through some somewhat pruned pine, the trail turns into a boardwalk over marshland. Climb Kaun-dake as a slight detour or skip it and similarly ignore the side trails to Hisago-numa, sticking to the ones marked for Tomuraushi.
The path drops to down to 1750m and then starts the rocky climb up Tomuraushi (2141m), one of the 100 famous mountains of Japan. Hiking poles are recommended for hopping from boulder to boulder. The peak is very popular and presents an opportunity to chat with the picnicking locals. The weather around the peak and the camp on the opposite side is highly variable: I arrived at the Minami-numa campsite at 1pm and watched the weather change from fog to clear skies to a torrential thunder storm. Set camp quickly. There is meltwater and a form of outhouse which lets you do your business into a bag and pack it out, rather than dig a cathole.
The Hike - Day 4
The LP Hiking in Japan guide lists Day 4 as the hardest day, and they aren't fooling.
The LP notes that you can cut the day in half by staying at Futago-numa, but this campsite is really muddy and not at all attractive. Instead, if you are concerned about the length of Day 4 (17km), I would recommend filling up on water at Minami-Numa, and instead of cutting that day short at lunchtime, keep hiking toward Sansen-dai, the first mountain of Day 4. Shortly before and after Sansen-dai there are very small campsites not listed on the Shobunsha map. The former is exposed and doesn't have water, but camping here shortens the next day by 90 minutes. The latter has questionable water and room for about 3 tents. Also note that between the two sites there is a decommissioned trail leading to the west, but the sign's red lettering is extremely faded and the sign itself isn't placed to block you from taking that trail inadvertently.
At the base of Tsurigane-yama, there is a third campsite, fitting about 5 tents, again with no amenities, reachable after around 3 hours of hiking from Minami-Numa. None of these sites are as nice as Minami-Numa, but they make Day 4 shorter.
After the tough trails, the hours leading up to Futago-numa are fairly easy, popping up and down along the ridge leading south. Just before Futago-numa, however, is the least pleasant stretch in the hike. The trails turn into puddles and streams, again requiring the use of a hiking stick or pole to keep from falling in as you jump from dry land to dry land. The trail is also mostly hidden and footing is treacherous. Gauge your energy level after taking lunch at Futago-numa, as another 4 hours of hiking remains. The remaining mountain, Oputakeshike,
The camp at Biei-Fuji Hinan-goya is so-so. The hut is unstaffed and sleeps about 8, while the campsites are somewhat muddy. The water source is a 10 minute hike north past the camp: look for a small stream flowing across the trail from the left bank. There are no toilets.
The Hike - Day 5
Almost done! Head south past Biei Fuji and to the 3-way junction that leads up Biei-dake, to the peak of Biei Fuji, or down to Tokachi-dake Hinan-goya. Climb Biei-dake and look for an extremely large rabbit that seems to call the area home. The mountains seen from Biei-dake are distinctly different from the previous ones. The slopes are barren and streaked in shades of brown, yellow and white. The ridge from Biei links up to the biggest mountain of sand you'll ever see - Tokachi-dake.
The people at the peak listening to baseball on little radios and drinking beer will, however, dispel the magic. From the peak, follow the signs marked for Tokachi-dake Onsen. The next main landmark is Kami Horo Hinan-goya, a little hut at the base of Kami Horokamettoku-yama. If you are considering the Side Trip to Furano-dake, you might want to camp here. From the hut you can climb the peak or skirt it. I personally found skirting it to be disorienting, as I was in heavy cloud and the trail bended west more than expected. Climbing over it is probably just as easy physically as the peak isn't big and it may be easier to navigate. If in doubt, 2 minutes after the trails meet a new junction that leads to Furano-dake or to Tokachi-dake Onsen clears up any uncertainty. From here it is another 2.5hrs down to the onsen. Part of the trail is made of large wooden stairs, but if your legs are tired they are just as difficult as a trail, so don't let your guard up just yet.
The Onsen has a nice valley setting and a beer machine,
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